Bagoong

Bagoóng alamáng is made by fermenting krill in salt.

Bagoóng (Tagalog pronunciation: [bɐɡuˈoŋ]; Ilocano: bugguong) is a Philippine condiment made of partially or completely fermented fish (bagoóng isdâ) or krill (bagoóng alamáng) and salt. The fermentation process also results in fish sauce (known as patís).

The preparation of bagoóng can vary regionally in the Philippines.

Types

Bagoóng is usually made from a variety of fish species. Common varieties used include the following:

• Anchovies - known as dilis, monamon, bolinaw, or gurayan (Stolephrus and Encrasicholina spp.)
• Round scads - known as galunggóng or tamodios (Decapterus spp.)
• Bonnetmouths (Redbait or Rubyfish) - known as terong (Emmelichthys nitidus, Emmelichthys struhsakeri, and Plagiogeneion rubiginosum)
• Ponyfish - known as sapsáp (Leiognathus, Photopectoralis, and Equulites spp.)
• Rabbitfish - known as padas (Siganus spp.)
• Bar-eyed gobies - known as ipon (Glossogobius giuris).
• Herrings - Clupeoides lila
• Silver perch - known as ayungin (Leiopotherapon plumbeus)

Bagoóng made from fish is encompassed by the term bagoóng isdâ (lit. "fish bagging") in Luzon and northern parts of the Visayas. In the Southern Visayas and Mindanao, fish bagoong is known as guinamos (also spelled ginamos). They can be distinguished further by the type of fish they are made of. Those made from anchovies are generally known as bagoong monamon or bagoong dilis and those from bonnetmouths as bagoong terong.

Bagoong can also be made from krill. This type of bagoong is known as bagoong alamang. It is called uyap or alamang in the Southern Philippines, armang in Ilocos and parts of Northern Luzon, and ginamos or dayok in Western Visayas.

In rarer instances, it can also be made from oysters, clams, and fish and shrimp roe. A kind of bagoong made in the town of Balayan, Batangas is also known as bagoong Balayan.

Preparation

Bagoong isda and Bagoong alamang

Bagoong isda is prepared by mixing salt and fish usually by volume; mixture proportions are proprietary depending on the manufacturer. The salt and fish are mixed uniformly, usually by hand. The mixture is kept inside large earthen fermentation jars (known as a burnay in Ilocano). It is covered, to keep flies away, and left to ferment for 30-90 days with occasional stirring to make sure the salt is spread evenly. The mixture can significantly expand during the process.

The preparation of bagoong alamang (shrimp or krill paste) is similar, with krill cleaned thoroughly and washed in weak brine solution (10%). As in fish bagoong, the shrimp are then mixed with salt in a 25% salt to 75% shrimp ratio by weight.

The products of the fermentation process are usually pale gray to white in color. To obtain the characteristic red or pink color of some bagoong, a kind of food coloring known as angkak is added. Angkak is made from rice inoculated with a species of red mold (Monascus purpureus). High quality salt with little mineral impurities are preferred. High metallic content in the salt used can often result in darker colors to the resulting bagoong and a less agreeable undertaste. Likewise, oversalting and undersalting also has a significant impact on the rate and quality of fermentation due to their effects on the bacteria involved in the process. Some manufacturers grind the fermented product finely and sell the resulting mixture as fish paste.

Patís

Further information: Fish sauce

Patís or fish sauce is a byproduct of the fermentation process. It is a clear, yellowish liquid that floats above the fermented mixture, and has sharp salty or cheese-like flavour. Sauces similar to patís include nước mắm in Vietnam, nam pha (ນ້ຳປາ) in Laos, hom ha in China, nam pla in Thailand, shitsuru in Japan and saeu chot in Korea, as well as the garum of ancient Greece and the Roman empire.

To obtain patís, fermentation is longer, usually taking 6 months to a year. During longer fermentation processes, the fish or shrimp constituents disintegrate further, producing a clear yellowish liquid on top of the mixture due to hydrolysis. This is the patis, it can be harvested once it has developed its characteristic smell. It is drained, pasteurized, and bottled separately, while the residue is turned into bagoong. If the residual solids are not moist enough, brine is usually added. The rate of fermentation can vary depending on the pH levels of the mixture and the temperature. Exposure to sunlight can also reduce the amount of time required to two months.

See also

• Bagoong monamon
• Bagoong terong
• Fish sauce
• Garum
• List of fermented foods
• List of fish sauces
• Shrimp paste

References

• Bagoong: Good for the brain
• Filipino American, Fred Cordova, Filipinos: Forgotten Asian Americans (Dubuque, IA: Kendall/ Hunt, 1983)
• Philippines Deep Sea Fishing and Refrigeration
• Foods Used by Filipinos in Hawaii, Bulletin 98 - Hawaii Agricultural Experiment Station, 1946