Ashima Shiraishi

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Ashima Shiraishi
Personal information
Nationality American/Japanese
Born (2001-04-03) April 3, 2001 (age 23)
New York, NY
Occupation Student and Rock Climber
Climbing career
Type of climber Bouldering, Sport Climbing
Highest grade <templatestyles src="Plainlist/styles.css"/>

Ashima Shiraishi (born April 3, 2001 in New York, NY) is an American rock climber. She is known for being one of the strongest young climbers - male or female - of all time. She started climbing at age six in Central Park and at Manhattan Plaza Health Club.[1] She often climbs at Brooklyn Boulders.

The New York Times has called her a "bouldering phenom".[2] Outside Magazine has described her as a "young crusher".[3] At age 13 she became the second[4][5] female, and youngest (male/female), to climb a sport route with a difficulty grade of 9a+ (5.15a).[6] Very few athletes in the world can climb at this level. In 2016 she became the first female to send an 8C boulder problem, which she did at Mount Hiei in Japan.[7]

Biography

Ashima was born in New York, NY in 2001. Her parents, Tsuya and Hisatoshi Shiraishi, immigrated from Japan in 1978 to New York, NY. Her father, Hisatoshi Shiraishi was trained as a dancer in Butoh. When Ashima was 6, her parents took her to Central Park and she discovered Rat Rock where she first started to rock climb.[1]

Ashima first made a name for herself by bouldering at a very high level at a very young age. At age 8, Ashima climbed the challenging boulder problem Power of Silence (V10). At age 9, she sent Chablanke (V11/12), Roger in the Shower (V11), and several other difficult boulders. At age 10, Ashima climbed Crown of Aragorn (V13). She is the youngest person ever to climb this grade, and one of very few females to climb a confirmed V13.[8]

Ashima has also excelled in sport climbing. In October 2012, at age 11 she sent Southern Smoke at the Red River Gorge, a grade 5.14c sport climb. Ashima is the youngest person to climb a sport climbing route of this difficulty.[9]

In 2013, Ashima continued to excel at both bouldering and sport climbing, adding 5.14a at Céüse,[10] then two more V13s with One Summer in Paradise[11] and Automator,[12] and finally two 5.14c's (24 Karats and 50 Words for Pump)[13] to her already impressive ticklist. In July 2014, she climbed what might be her first V14, Golden Shadow; however, there is a suggestion Golden Shadow is V13 or V13/V14.[14] She is only the second officially recorded female climber (after Tomoko Ogawa) to successfully send a V14 problem.[15] On the first day of 2015, Ashima sent her second V14 (V13/V14), The Swarm, claiming the first female top-out of the problem.[16][17][18]

At age 13, Ashima climbed her first 5.14d/9a, 'Open Your Mind Direct R1' in Santa Linya. The route was thought to be harder at the time because of a broken hold near the top,[19] but on Christmas day of 2015 Edu Márin Garcia climbed the route past Ashima's end point to the second top and confirmed Ashima's route as a 5.14d/9a.[20]

In the same climbing trip Ashima climbed 'Ciudad de Dios', making her the youngest athlete, male or female, to climb a 5.15a/9a+ and the second female to climb at this level if the grade is confirmed.[6][19][21] The route has been climbed by 6 other athletes, but there is still no definite consensus on the grade.

In 2015 Ashima won the IFSC World Youth Championships for both lead and bouldering in the Female Youth B category.

In 2016 she became the first female to send an 8C boulder problem, which she did at Mount Hiei in Japan.[7]

She is sponsored by Evolv, The North Face, Clif Bar, and Petzl.

Notable ascents

Bouldering

  • V15
    • Horizon: V15 (8C)
  • V14
    • Golden Shadow: V14 (8B+)
    • The Swarm: V14 (8B+)
    • Nuclear War: V14 (8B+)
    • Phenomena: V14 (8B+)
    • Terre de Sienne: V13/V14 
  • V13
    • Crown of Aragorn: V13 (8B)
    • One Summer in Paradise: V13 (8B)
    • The Automator: V13 (8B)
  • V12
    • Chblanke: V11/V12 (8a/8a+)
  • V11
    • Ashimandala: V11 (8A)
    • Roger in the Shower: V11 (8A)
  • V10
    • Power of Silence: V10 (7C+)

Lead climbing

  • 9a or 9a+ / 5.14d or 5.15a (grade of route that have not reached consensus[6][19][21])
    • Ciudad de Dios: 9a/9a+ (5.14d/5.15a). First Female Ascent, March 23, 2015 (Santa Linya, Spain).[6]
  • 9a/5.14d
    • Open Your Mind Direct R1: 9a (5.14d). First Female Ascent, March 17, 2015 (Santa Linya, Spain)[19][20][21]
  • 8c+/5.14c
    • Southern Smoke: 5.14c (8c+). September 2012 (Red River Gorge, USA)[22]
    • Lucifer: 5.14c (8c+). September 2012 (Red River Gorge, USA)[22]
    • 24 Karats: 5.14c (8c+). October 2013 (Red River Gorge, USA)[23]
    • 50 Words for Pump: 5.14c (8c+). October 2013 (Red River Gorge, USA)[23]
    • La Fabela: 8c+ (5.14c). First Female Ascent, March 2014 (Santa Linya, Lleida)[24]
  • 8c/5.14b
    • Digital system: 8c (5.14b). March 2014 (Santa Linya, Lleida)[24]
    • Rollito Sharma extension: 8c (5.14b). March 2014 (Santa Linya, Lleida)[24]

References

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  2. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
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  6. ↑ 6.0 6.1 6.2 6.3 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  7. ↑ 7.0 7.1 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  8. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  9. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  10. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  11. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  12. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  13. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  14. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  15. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  16. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  17. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  18. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  19. ↑ 19.0 19.1 19.2 19.3 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  20. ↑ 20.0 20.1 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  21. ↑ 21.0 21.1 21.2 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  22. ↑ 22.0 22.1 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  23. ↑ 23.0 23.1 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  24. ↑ 24.0 24.1 24.2 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.

External links

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